OIL, HEALTHY, PIGHT, STRONG SKIN CARE: ORPT
“I want my complexion to be brighter and more balanced, I have very few, even no wrinkles, but I am confused as to which moisturizer and sunscreen is best for my skin. Do I need a toner? Many of the creams I am using feel very heavy. I need a regimen specifically for my skin.”
– ABOUT YOUR SKIN
Your skin is clearly one of the easiest, as healthy skin has many advantages, few disadvantages.
Oily, healthy, and tight skin looks beautiful even as you age. You may have acne (in your youth), some dark spots, but your easy-to-care skin is always rosy and radiant.
Fortunately, you rarely experience redness, numbness, or product allergies like sensitive skin.
Oily skin is a problem at a young age, but for women, it improves after menopause.
Your pigmentation causes dark spots, but it also protects your skin from skin cancer.
Finally, the tight skin factor helps you stay youthful while other skin types are on the hunt for anti-aging remedies. Your skin is the dream of many people, and you can protect your skin by using sunscreen daily, and eating vegetables and fruits rich in antioxidants.
ORPT skin type is quite common among people of color like Americans - Caribbean. Lighter-skinned people from other races like Irish, British, etc. can also be ORPTs with red hair and hereditary freckles (a form of pigmentation).
That's why if the questionnaire shows you have the ORPT skin type but you don't have all of the symptoms outlined below, you shouldn't worry that the test results are wrong.
All ORPTs share some common problems, but also some that are different.
So this chapter will discuss the symptoms, trends, and different treatment options for black, colored, and white ORPT skin.
– SKIN COLOR AND ORPT
The tips in this chapter will help make your skin more rosy and radiant, whether you're a white or black ORPT.
Occupying a high percentage of ORPT skin types are American - African, American - Latino, Mediterranean and Asian.
Please note that while Asian skin looks lighter, it reacts the same way as darker skin. If you are Asian, put yourself in the black ORPT group, and follow the chapter's black tips.
Caucasian ORPTs generally have both good genes and healthy living habits, so their skin is protected against aging.
They usually eat a lot of vegetables and fruits, do not smoke and do not intentionally expose themselves to the sun. Those things are good for you, because that combination helps you prevent wrinkles.
– YOUR SKIN PROBLEM
All black ORPT people are prone to dark spots after inflammation or any trauma such as cuts, burns, bruises and scrapes. Allergic reactions are less common than sensitive skin types.
In most cases, strong topical products can easily prevent and lighten dark spots.
So thank your healthy skin because you can use those products while sensitive skin can't.
Ingrown hairs in the skin can cause dark spots, black ORPT men can experience this problem in the area of the beard, especially if they shave.
Women may also have more hair on the edges, cheeks, or other places.
People with dark skinned ORPTs also have dark hair, so excessive hair growth can be noticeable.
However, getting rid of these unwanted hair areas can cause more problems. Waxing or applying chemical depilatories can irritate the skin and leave dark marks. Pulling or plucking creates trauma and eventually black marks.
Your second main problem is acne and oily skin. Maybe you're battling oily skin, struggling with acne, frustrated that your face always looks shiny in the photo, and you're avoiding sunscreen because you can't stand the greasy feel of this product.
The trick here is to look for sunscreens and other products that don't increase your skin's inherent oiliness.
Many hair products contain emollient ingredients that are left on after washing. They're good for your hair, but they're a big deal for your skin. You must wash your face after shampooing and conditioning your hair to remove any residue of those products on your face.
You should also be wary of bug sprays, sunscreens, hair gels, hair conditioners, hand lotions, and other products that can come in contact with your face because they can contribute to a greasy look. .
Finding products that fight oil and inflammation that don't add oil or create dark brown spots is key. There are a number of ingredients widely used in skin care products that stimulate hormones, like estrogen, which increase skin pigmentation and contribute to dark spots.
In the past, many products failed to deliver results because they failed to address your skin's combination problems at the same time. Others are just not strong enough to work on your healthy, durable skin. Finding the right balance is a problem.
– CLOSE OF YOUR SKIN
A typical ORPT person has few skin problems. However, if they use poor quality products and think their skin can protect itself under all circumstances, they may suffer from oiliness or acne.
With black, colored or white skin, you may have the following symptoms:
– Facial skin looks shiny, especially in photos
- The foundation is melted
- Using sunscreen will cause an oily feeling
– Dark spots develop on the face
– TAN (a lot of sun exposure will tan the skin yellow-brown) easily
- Very few wrinkles
– Occasional acne
No matter what color your skin is, it is recommended that you use sunscreen regularly. While your skin may look brilliant when tanned, skip it and use a tanning cream (see chapter ten for details).
– ORPT BLACK SKIN
When treating black patients, noticing that very few people use sunscreen, they think they don't need it.
Dark-skinned people have more melanin, which protects the skin from the sun, but melanin is also the cause of dark spots. That evidence is everyday when many patients are colored and the common reason for dark spots to be treated.
In addition to stimulating the skin to increase the production of melanin pigment that causes dark spots, sun exposure has many other harmful effects. Excessive sun exposure will temporarily suppress the body's immune system for 1 to 3 days.
Therefore, within a few days of sun exposure, you are prone to colds and flu.
This explains why some people catch colds in the summer (having a cold in the winter is caused by something else).
Getting infected with viruses like Herpes also happens more easily due to this temporary immunosuppression.
So sun protection should come first, no matter what color your skin is. And sunscreen should be used every day, not every once in a while.
Finding the right shade of sunscreen, foundation, and powder can be a problem for people of color.
For example, Asian skin has over two hundred color scales, but no company offers two hundred shades of makeup foundation.
Oily skin types often don't like the greasy feel of sunscreen products, and black people find that white creams turn their skin purple or slightly white.
Finding the right tinted moisturizer is also important. Fortunately, moisturizers are now available in a wide range of colors as companies recognize the need to develop skin care products that are suitable for people of color.
* With black ORPT, you may experience the following:
- Dark spots in previously irritated skin areas
- Glossy skin, especially when using sunscreen products
The skin is white or purple when using sunscreen
– Hard to find the right foundation color
- The foundation is melted
Hair grows back into the skin causing dark spots
- Dark circles under eyes
– ORPT WHITE SKIN
Like black ORPTs, white ORPTs also have a tendency to develop dark spots. But in this case, they are mostly freckles. To avoid this consequence, you should learn to avoid the sun. Do you remember the detail of Scarlett O'Hara applying milky lotion on her shoulder to remove the freckles caused by the sun in Gone with the Wind? Her skin is likely to be of the Caucasian ORPT type. (Do you think Scarlett knew there was lactic acid in milk, an alpha hydroxyl acid that helps get rid of dark spots because it exfoliates?)
The problem of light skin ORPT is easier to solve than dark skin type. Hereditary freckles and freckles in Caucasians can be well improved with laser and light treatment. In black people, because the amount of melanin in the cells around the area to be treated is also high, they will absorb a lot of energy from the laser and light, so laser and light treatment will destroy the normal skin. usually nearby.
* If you are a Caucasian ORPT, you may experience the following:
– Oily face especially when using sunscreen products
– Dot hereditary freckles on the face and body
– Freckles caused by sunlight on hands, arms and legs
High risk of melanoma, especially if you have red hair tóc
– THE LEFT FACE OF TREATMENT SKIN
ORPT skin types may have good genes, but that won't help you fight a lousy skin care routine.
For example, two people with very similar skin types are ORPT (Oil, Healthy, Pigmented, Tight) and ORPW (Oily, Healthy, Pigmented, Wrinkled Skin). Too much sun exposure and smoking won't cause as many wrinkles for tight skin, but they do increase the risk of skin cancer, especially for white ORPTs, and worse, they can turn your skin to wrinkled skin type.
You can control your life habits, building good living habits is very important.
Caucasian ORPTs have a higher risk of melanoma, so regular sun protection is crucial, especially when you're outdoors. This type of skin cancer is life-threatening, warn people with pigmented skin types – check it out when there are suspicious signs.
If you have fair skin, red hair, and freckles, get regular screenings for skin cell cancer, which is completely curable when caught early.
- melanoma skin cancer
* Four signs need to be careful:
A: Symmetry: one side of the mole is not symmetrical with the other.
B: Contour: the contour is not clear, it is difficult to tell where the mole begins and ends.
C: Color: Moles have many colors: white, black, red, yellow.
D: Diameter: more than 6mm
If you have moles with these characteristics, see a dermatologist right away. If you or your family has a history of melanoma, get checked every six months. If you have red hair, are Australian, and have a history of repeated sunburns, you are also at increased risk of developing melanoma.
– Aging and ORPT
As you age, skin problems decrease, except that you may get more sun spots if you are fair-skinned.
Most ORPTs prefer their skin to be in their 50s – 60s, the age at which other skin types are undergoing anti-wrinkle creams and plastic surgery.
You are lucky for many reasons. First, as you pass menopause, oil secretion tends to decrease.
Second, estrogen levels (which contribute to dark spots and melasma) decrease with age, so pigmentation problems improve. Hormonal fluctuations due to pregnancy, taking oral contraceptives will no longer be in the perimenopausal stage.
However, if you take hormone replacement therapy (HRT), you may still have dark spots. Dry, wrinkled skin can be improved with hormone replacement therapy (HRT), but dry-wrinkle is not your problem.
Whether or not to use HRT depends on your obstetrician, as family history and other risk factors must be considered. But most ORPT skins don't need it.
Note: Enjoy your glowing skin, but don't think it's inevitable and forever. You should follow a daily skin care regimen to make sure your skin doesn't have to take care of it too much and doesn't have bad problems.
Healthy lifestyle habits such as using sunscreen, not smoking and taking in more antioxidants will help your skin look younger over time.
– DAILY SKIN CARE MODE
The purpose of skin care is to tackle oily skin and dark spots with oil-control products, skin-whitening ingredients, and ingredients that help prevent dark spots.
Your skin can tolerate strong whitening ingredients. The products are strong enough to be effective without being greasy or too thick, because they don't make your skin look oily.
Dark spots are your number one skin problem.
Some ORPT people don't find too much trouble with oily skin, others do.
1. BLACK SCRATCH REMOVAL MODE
In the morning, wash your face with a cleanser, then apply a toner or peel containing glycolic acid.
Next, apply sunscreen.
Finally, use powder if you want.
Currently, many cosmetic companies have launched many product lines suitable for both white and black ORPT people.
In the evening, wash your face with the same cleanser as in the morning, then apply a skin-lightening product to the dark spots.
Finally, apply a moisturizer containing retinol, it will help control oil, prevent dark spots and prevent wrinkles.
You can use an eye cream and serum if you want, applying it in the morning before sunscreen and at night before a product containing retinol.
– MODE FOR PREVENTION OF BLACK STICKERS
In the morning, wash your face with a cleanser then use a peel-off product or toner if desired.
Next, apply sunscreen. If your skin feels oily, you can also use powder with SPF.
In the evening, wash your face with the same cleanser as in the morning, then apply a product containing retinol to control oil, prevent wrinkles and prevent dark spots.
You can use an eye cream and serum if you want, applying it in the morning before sunscreen and at night before a product containing retinol.
- Use Toner
You can use toners that contain ingredients that control oil, absorb oil, peel, or lighten dark spots.
- Oil control products
You can use these products whenever you need them.
- Treatment of dark spots
If dark spots appear, you can use skin lightening products that are applied after cleansing, toner, and before other products.
You should start using when the dark spots appear until they completely disappear.
You can use products containing retinol to help prevent dark brown spots. When dark brown spots have not appeared, use a retinol gel and moisturizer; When they appear, use retionol with moisturizer and skin-lightening gel.
- Set of skin lightening products
You're in luck as there are many product lines developed especially for you, of which prepackaged sets are also a good choice.
- Moisturizing products
Regular moisturizing is not necessary as it makes your skin oilier.
However, in dry, cold, windy climates, you should use moisturizing products to protect your skin.
If you have dark spots, look for moisturizers that contain soy, niacinamide, mulberry, kojic acid, hydroquinone, and licorice extract.
In the morning, apply moisturizer with SPF or apply sunscreen after applying moisturizer.
For dark circles under your eyes, you can use an eye cream (moisturizer) containing retinol and vitamin K.
The mask, used once or twice a week, will provide your skin with the potent ingredients it needs.
You're better off going to a spa or salon or seeing a dermatologist for a chemical peel or microdermabration treatment. These treatments help to improve small, shallow wrinkles and dark spots.
- Kill death celk
Exfoliating products also work, but don't use them more than two to three times a week as this can cause inflammation and lead to dark spots, especially if you have darker skin. You can purchase the Clarisonic MD Skin Care peeling apparatus from a dermatologist.
- BUY PRODUCT
To expand your choice, read product labels to pick ones that contain beneficial ingredients and avoid those that cause pigmentation and oiliness. Lemon juice or bergamot oil makes your skin more sensitive to light, increasing tans and dark spots. The ingredients that stimulate estrogen will increase melasma.
- Sunscreen for your skin
You must use sunscreen to prevent dark spots. Even if your skin color is very dark, it is even more imperative.
Creamy sunscreens can make your skin oilier and cause makeup to melt.
Since many ORPTs prefer powder or gel sunscreens, SPF powders are perfect for you as they help absorb oil.
However, do not trust the SPF of makeup. Black people may not like the white color of sunscreen, but that color will disappear after a few minutes of application.
If that doesn't happen, look for a colorless sunscreen.
- Make up
Makeup helps cover up dark spots, but many foundations melt when used on oily skin.
Instead, use powder or powder / foundation will be good. You can also apply foundation and then powder it on.
Look for products that contain sunscreen because sun protection is never enough.
Some new foundations contain skin-whitening ingredients (such as soy) that help lighten dark spots.
If the main problem is oily skin and foundation melt, stay away from liquid foundations, instead use tinted sunscreen and top with oil-control powder to help reduce skin shine.
2. TREATMENTS FOR YOUR SKIN
Black ORPTs often find topical products effective at removing dark spots, which means you can avoid expensive, unnecessary, and sometimes harmful treatments. But be patient because topical products take time to make a difference.
- Light therapy
For Caucasians, light therapy such as IPL and Levulan can help reduce oil secretion by shrinking the oil-producing glands. If your skin is dark, I would advise against doing this treatment as it can lead to inflammation and make the dark spots worse.
- Chemical peel
Peeling is the choice for black people or those who want to stay away from expensive IPL therapy.
Your dermatologist will perform peels for you with products containing AHA and BHA in higher concentrations than over-the-counter or spa products.
These products contain 20-30% salicylic acid (BHA) or a combination of glycolic acid and skin-whitening agents. You should ask your dermatologist about the type of PCA or Jessner, they are quite ideal for you. However, if you want to go to the spa, ask for a glycolic acid peel or Jessner's new one.
If your skin is black, choose a dermatologist who has experience treating patients of color because dark spots can be worse if peeling is not done correctly.
Microdermabration makes dark spots disappear faster. Black people should be careful because too much treatment can make dark spots worse.
- Shrink pores
No skin care products, cosmetics, or facial massage, microdermabration can shrink pores. The narrowing of pores you see is caused by ingredients in skin care products that cause the edge of the pore to slightly swell, which in turn causes the pore to temporarily shrink.
Instead, try using products containing AHA, BHA, vitamin C, they will shrink pores, but only temporarily.
Methods of Treating Signs of Aging & Slowing Skin Aging
Wrinkles appear due to changes in the dermis.
- The goal of "anti-wrinkle" is to prevent the loss of Collagen, Elastin and Hyaluronic Acid (HA) - these are 3 important components of the dermis, they decrease with age or when the skin is damaged, inflammation.
1. The ingredients in cosmetics are misleading in anti-aging.
Collagen, Elastin and Hyaluronic Acid are all substances with large molecular structures, when applied to the skin, they can only stay on the skin surface (epidermis) as a normal moisturizer that cannot be absorbed into the skin to penetrate deep into the dermis.
A. Collagen and Elastin
Topical sugar (using cosmetics): Cosmetics containing Collagen and Elastin are expensive, but they are only used as a moisturizing product and cannot be absorbed into the dermis to promote anti-aging effects.
Oral: Oral collagen can work with the body but mainly on bones and joints, the effect on the skin is not much, it takes a long time and is very expensive.
Do not invest too much money because you believe in the skin rejuvenation of products containing Collagen or Elastin.
B. Hyaluronic Acid
Injection: however, it only works on the injected skin (wrinkles, loose skin, flabby skin).
Oral: 90% of HA is destroyed in the digestive system, so only 10% is absorbed into the body, evenly distributed to parts such as cartilage, joints, eyes, skin...
Topical: HA in cosmetics has the effect of moisturizing the skin thanks to its ability to absorb water from the environment inward and retain water on the skin, while its ability to penetrate the dermis to fight wrinkles is still controversial. Cosmetic companies have hydrolyzed HA into small molecule form (HHA) to easily enter the skin. Many recent studies also suggest that large molecular HA can still be absorbed.
HA has always been a good skin care ingredient at an affordable price. Although the anti-aging effect of cosmetics containing HA has not been clarified, the ability to moisturize and retain water is completely real. You should still use products containing HA in your skin care regimen.
2. Real ingredients with anti-aging effects
The best method to fight aging is to use antioxidants to prevent collagen indentation, and at the same time stimulate the skin to produce collagen, elastin and HA by the following substances:
C. OLD VITAMINS
Ingestion: take supplements and eat foods rich in vitamin C such as citrus fruits, tomatoes, red peppers, bell peppers, dark green leafy vegetables like broccoli, sprouts and kiwis.
Cosmetic use: Topical vitamin C has the ability to promote recovery and collagen production. Vitamin C used in cosmetics has many derivatives, the best forms of collagen proliferation are L-AA, SAP, MAP and AP.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACID (AHA)
Popular AHAs like Glycolic Acid or Latic Acid... will remove the dead skin layer at the top of the skin, speeding up the natural regeneration of new Elastin and Collagen, making the skin look younger.
AHA is easy to cause skin irritation, not suitable for skin that is too thin and sensitive. If you can't tolerate AHAs, you should still physically exfoliate 1-2 times a week.
Retinoids (including Retinol and Tretinoin) work against aging by inhibiting the formation of collagen-degrading enzymes, stimulating skin receptors that promote collagen production, minimizing wrinkles, and stimulating circulation. blood for healthy rosy skin. When using Retinoid, the dermis layer becomes thicker and stronger, the surface and elasticity of the skin is also improved and rejuvenated.
Note: Retinoids are photoactive, so should only be used at night.
Amino Acid chains have the effect of stimulating increased production of Fibronectin fibers and Collagen types I, IV, VII, XVII. Types of peptides used in cosmetics:
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (other name: Matrixyl)
Acetyl hexapeptide-3 (other name: Argireline)
Among the most popular are Matrixyl and Argireline. Matrixyl is effective in stimulating collagen production in the skin, while Argireline can produce a botox-like effect.
NIACINAMIDE (derivative of vitamin B3)
It is a versatile ingredient capable of solving many skin problems encountered from 20 years of age and older, especially skin aging, acne and dark spots.
Niacinamide has been shown to be effective in reducing wrinkles at a concentration of 5%, along with the ability to stimulate blood circulation in the epidermis, strengthen the skin barrier, help prevent skin dehydration, This helps to keep the skin youthful and radiant.
A potent and significant anti-inflammatory polyphenol antioxidant, found in red grapes, red wine, nuts, and fruits such as blueberries and cranberries.
Resveratrol protects the skin against sun damage, improves collagen production, and reduces skin cell damage, which is especially beneficial for those with premature aging.
Antioxidants protect the skin from free radicals.
Free radicals are damaged cells that lack an electron, tend to attack healthy skin cells and suck up the 1 electron they lack, damaging healthy skin cells and causing the skin to age faster.
Common antioxidants are: vitamin E, vitamin C, Ferulic Acid, Catechin, Flavonoid, Isoflavoneic Acid, Zinc, Coenzyme Q10, Melatonin, Anthocyanin, Beta-Carotene, Selenium, Ginkgo Biloba, Glutathione, Lutein...
ALPHA LIPOIC ACID and DMAE
Many commercially available anti-aging products contain Alpha Lipoic Acid and DMAE (dimethyl-amino-ethanol). In fact, these ingredients are effective in treating wrinkles for healthy skin type (R), but have almost no effect on sensitive skin (S).
After the above article, what do you think? You have really understood your skin type right yet?
From theory to practice
Although Baumann's skin classification system is somewhat more specific and accurate in assessing skin, we should understand that this is only a systematic method from the perspective of four factors. factor, not a specific solution, is if your skin belongs to any group, you need to take care of your skin.
There are two issues to keep in mind:
• The skin on your face can have different characteristics, it is normal for the cheeks to be dry and the forehead to be oily. If the difference is small, that's okay, but if it's too big, maybe you should treat each skin area as different skin types and treat them separately.
Suppose in the above case, you can consider your cheek skin as DRNW and forehead skin as OSNT and then follow the corresponding regimen for example. The specific skin care is also reasonable to explain the spot treatment method, for example, if your skin has acne, where is it considered a special skin, only apply acne cream there. Just don't apply the whole face.
• Distinguishing skin type and skin condition: One of the dangerous mistakes of skin classification is the confusion between skin type and skin condition. Each person's skin type is fixed, but the skin condition is constantly changing depending on the environment and care.
For example, people with oily skin will have large pores and active sebum, this is a genetic factor, normal skincare will not be changed. However, in the dry winter, the person's skin becomes more balanced, even showing signs of dryness. In this case, the skin type is still fixed with the element of oily skin (Oily) but the weather fluctuations have caused the moisture on the skin's surface to change. The purpose of skincare is to overcome the disadvantages of the skin type through balancing the state of the skin. This means that even if you know your skin is oily, when the surface of your skin is dry, you need to change the appropriate moisturizing measure to bring the skin state back to balance.
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