CARE OF DRY, SENSITIVE, DYNAMIC, WRINKLE SKIN: DSPW
“You have many skin problems, including aging problems. You are overloaded with product selection out of the market. It seems that your skin needs to use a lot of different cosmetics. Need an easy-to-follow skin care regimen to solve your skin problems.”
– ABOUT YOUR SKIN
DSPW skin type doesn't give you a break. Your skin is dry, scaly, cracked and “screaming” for moisturizer. What's more, your skin is hot, itchy, numb, and acne-prone because it reacts to so many ingredients that very few products are right for you.
Synthetic ingredients in skin care products (such as fragrances, detergents, preservatives) can cause irritation. Natural ingredients in skin care such as essential oils, coconut oil, or cocoa butter can also cause reactions. When using a sunspot treatment product, it can cause itching and make your pigmented skin red.
So even though you stay out of the sun, people often ask if you've just come back from the beach because your face looks as red as a sunburn even in the last days of winter. Anti-aging cream makes you look like the victim of a burn, it creates red patches of inflammation, which over time turn brown and last several months. Although the process of improving your skin requires careful step-by-step, it can be done, so don't give up. The good news is that in all skin types,
DSPW will get the most useful information from this program. There have been many studies on your skin type that will convey them, helping you improve your skin and enhance your quality of life.
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– DSPW SKIN: PROGRESSION OF FAILURE
You can't imagine your sensitive skin. As one of the most tired skin types, you find it difficult to take care of your skin properly. You can't seem to find your way through the maze of skin care products to pick a few that work for you, unless you're a millionaire who can buy dozens of products then use and throw away. if not suitable.
DSPW often has eczema (also called atopic dermatitis), which is a condition in which dry skin becomes irritated, red, and inflamed, then develops into patches of itchy skin that take a while to heal.
– SKIN BEFORE Disturbance
Dry, sensitive skin types often suffer from skin barrier disorders. The cells that help maintain the integrity of the skin are destroyed due to many reasons, including: allergies, irritating products and ingredients, environmental conditions such as dryness and cold air. Since then the barrier cannot hold water inside, so the skin is dehydrated. On the other hand, it doesn't block the allergens from the outside, and when these ingredients get into the skin, they cause inflammation.
DSPW skin has no protection. You have thin skin. Dry, irritated, red and itchy skin makes you want to scratch, and scratching further damages the skin barrier. Because your skin is pigmented, areas that get irritated (like the backs of your knees and the insides of your elbows) tend to darken. Things like scratching, cutting, and scraping the skin are worse: they can cause dark spots in the damaged area, because the high concentration of skin pigment reacts with inflammation to cause darkening. Skin barrier damage → itching → scratching → further damage to the skin barrier: that's your pathological spiral.
Dark spots can be the result of many things: cuts, scratches, oral contraceptives, pregnancy, and sun exposure. Dark spots look darker in the summer with a lot of sun exposure. Dark spots, dark patches after trauma often occur in people of color, dermatologists call them post-inflammatory pigmentation disorder (PIPA). Both black and white DSPWs can experience melasma (also known as a sign of pregnancy), as a result of sun exposure and high levels of the hormone estrogen.
Symptoms of eczema: The skin of the face and neck can become dry, red and irritated, and dry patches of skin often appear suddenly behind the ears. Eczema can aggravate your stress. In more severe cases, people with eczema may have trouble sleeping because of the uncomfortable itchiness. The more flare-ups of the disease, the more frequent the insomnia. One study found that people with moderate eczema had a total duration of flare-ups of 3 months/year.
People with severe eczema are 5 months/year. Itching, irritability, loss of confidence, insomnia can lead to depression. Topical steroids and corticosteroids used to relieve symptoms temporarily, in the long term, make your skin worse because they make your skin thinner. Knowing what causes flare-ups will help you. control it. Any kind of stimulus, either psychological or external, can make your skin itchy and irritated. People with DSPW skin type who are prone to eczema should avoid irritating ingredients. likes and avoids provocative living factors.
Try to maintain a calm, balanced lifestyle, and drink anti-inflammatory green teas.
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– A COMPLEXED SKIN
DSPW is one of the most challenging and complex skin types because you suffer from (or are at risk of) all sorts of skin problems.
Your dry skin puts you at risk for eczema and other conditions associated with dry skin.
Your skin is sensitive so you may experience redness, irritation, numbness, and rashes in reaction to many skin care ingredients or other irritations.
Your skin is pigmented, so it can produce freckles, dark brown spots and sun spots.
Your skin is wrinkled, so the later on, the formation of wrinkles and other signs of aging more than other skin types.
The four factors above interact with each other and what manifests on your skin depends on the score of each factor.
Dry skin combined with sensitive skin can cause acne, rosacea, and eczema. You can read chapter two again to see how the scores of factors interact when creating your skin problem.
Fortunately, the right skin care regimen will help you. There is no single treatment that can solve all of DSPW's skin problems,
Wrinkles are caused by genes, lifestyle habits (such as sun exposure, smoking), diet, or a combination of these factors.
In some people, eczema is the result of an autoimmune process. As a result, some eczema patients find that sun exposure improves their skin because it reduces autoimmune responses.
However, sunbathing to control eczema can increase the risk of wrinkling and dry skin, which in turn contribute to increased eczema. Moreover, sun exposure and hot weather also aggravate rosacea.
So your skin doesn't have any good sides? One advantage of the DSPW skin type is that the risk of non-melanoma skin cancer is much lower than with other skin types.
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– A CLOSE OF YOUR SKIN
* With DSPW skin type, you may experience the following:
- Dry skin and flaking
– The pink scales
– Black patches and spots after injury or wound
– Facial redness and flushing
- Dilated blood vessels on the face
– Dark circles under the eyes
- Hypersensitivity to skin allergens
– Dry lips
– Darkened skin in the irritated area such as: behind the knee or the inside of the elbow
Both whites and people of color can have DSPW skin types. DSPW Caucasians may experience dark spots, melasma or freckles from sun exposure. Melasma can be treated with whitening creams, but it's best to stop taking hormonal medications (such as birth control pills or estrogen replacement pills HRT) because they tend to increase pigmentation. . Avoid sun exposure as they make melasma worse. Choose the right sunscreen because many products do not block UVA rays, which contribute to melasma.
Wear a sunscreen that blocks UVA rays even when indoors, in cars, or in airplanes because UVA rays penetrate glass. The good news about melasma is that it tends to improve after menopause. Although DSPWs of color (Asian) are not genetically predisposed to freckles, they do have other complicating problems caused by a variety of factors. multiply. People of color often have dark patches of skin after inflammation. When the redness and itching of the skin goes away, dark patches will appear. They can be long-lasting, increasing skin irritation and dryness.
In black people, flaking patches of skin look like gray scales. Many people refer to them as “ash skin” and some skin care products are advertised to treat this, but in reality the problem is simply dry skin and can be treated with any product. What good moisturizer? Depending on where your skin is dry, you can choose the right product for your face or body.
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– ADJUSTING SKIN CARE MODE
A humid climate is ideal for your skin. In winter, the dry climate increases the dry and sensitive factor of the skin, leading to scaling and itching. A dry environment like in an airplane or desert further dehydrates your already dehydrated skin. DSPW may also experience dry, itchy, and more sensitive skin from thick winter clothing made of wool because they rub and irritate the skin.
You need to change your skin care regimen according to the seasons, don't blindly follow one skin care regimen. Take care of your skin's condition and make changes as needed. If the climate is dry, you need to moisturize more often, use a stronger cream product. In more humid areas, you can go outside with lighter products. When the dark spots develop, treat them and when the dark spots are gone, go back to the maintenance regimen.
With DSPW skin type, skin problems often worsen with age. After the age of 40, the problem of dry skin can be worse, especially in post-menopausal women, who need to moisturize regularly and use strong moisturizing products. Sensitive skin problems also increase with age, as the more you are exposed to skin care ingredients, the more likely you are to develop an allergic reaction (it is not until the age of 80 and 90 that the problem subsides due to reduced immune function).
Therefore, find a few products that work for you and stick with it. Hereditary freckles, sun spots, prominent blood vessels on the face (sometimes seen with rosacea), and wrinkles also worsen with age. But acne and melasma will tend to decrease. With many of the above problems, it is guaranteed to help you improve those problems, if you stick to the program's given strategy.
Note: There is no room for mistakes, so follow these tips. If you think you have eczema, you should see a dermatologist. Because in many cases of eczema, a moisturizer and a daily skin care regimen are not enough. Fortunately, prescription drugs like Elidel are very effective for treating this condition.
– DAILY SKIN CARE
The purpose of a daily skin care regimen is to address dry, sensitive, dark spots with products containing ingredients that help retain water, reduce skin sensitivity, and reduce dark spots.
The skin care regimen also helps restore the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, prevent and treat wrinkles, and prevent and treat acne. Because DSPW skin type has so many potential problems, so tailor your skin care regimen to suit your current condition. You will find here skin care regimens for dark spots, redness and stinging or acne. If the skin problems are too troublesome, I recommend that you only try to maintain your skin care regimen for two weeks or until you see a dermatologist.
DAILY SKIN CARE MODE
1. SKIN CARE MODE TO TREAT BLACK STICKERS
In the morning, wash your face with a cold cream or cleansing oil, as they are less drying than other regular cleansers. Rinse with mineral water (see more information on mineral water in the following section).
Then, quickly apply a skin-lightening gel to the dark spots, followed by a moisturizer containing SPF. Try to apply moisturizer while your skin is still wet to draw water into your skin.
Finally, use a foundation with SPF if desired. In the evening, wash your face with an anti-dryness cleanser or facial oil. Then rinse with mineral water. Apply a skin-lightening gel to dark spots, then quickly apply an antioxidant-rich night cream.
If you suffer from acne, you can follow this regimen and supplement with a sulfur mask 1-2 times a week. Use the mask after washing your face, and apply the mask as long as the instructions on the box, and then wash it off.
Then continue with the rest of your skin care regimen.
2. SKIN CARE MODE TO KEEP WHEN THE BLACK SCRATCH is gone
In the morning, wash your face with cleanser. You can use anti-dry skin cleansers, cleansing oils, or gentle cleansers and lotions.
Next, apply an antioxidant serum. Spray with mineral water, then quickly apply moisturizer containing SPF.
Finally, use a foundation with SPF.
In the evening, wash your face with the same cleanser as in the morning and spray with mineral water. While your skin is still wet, quickly apply an antioxidant night cream.
3. SKIN CARE MODE WHEN THE DARK POINT IS GET AWAY, BUT SKIN IS RED AND Numb
In the morning, wash your face with a cleanser of your choice and rinse with mineral water. Apply an anti-inflammatory product (see list below). Next, apply a moisturizer with SPF, followed by foundation if desired. In the evening, wash your face with cleanser and rinse with mineral water.
Apply an anti-inflammatory product like in the morning, then apply an antioxidant cream. Apply a mask containing sulfur 1-2 times a week. Use the mask after you have washed your face and apply the mask for enough time according to the instructions and then rinse. Then continue with the rest of your skin care regimen.
DSPW skin type should avoid any cleanser that foams. The best product for your skin is an oil- or cream-based cleanser that doesn't dry out your skin.
- Anti-inflammatory products
Anti-inflammatory products are usually serums or gels. The most effective products are often prescribed by prescription, but a few over-the-counter products are also effective.
- Anti-Oxidant Serum
Antioxidant serums should be used in some skin care regimens, unless you frequently experience redness or stinging in reaction to other skin care products, as these serums can also be irritating. for your skin.
- Mineral water spray
DSPW skin types should not use toner, as it often has drying ingredients designed to remove skin lipids. Your skin needs all the lipids it has. Toners also contain ingredients that are irritating to your sensitive skin. If your skin is too sensitive, you can use special solutions. In a recent study, people stimulated the skin with detergents and compared how long the skin was irritated. Washing face with CO2-rich water for 1 minute/day, skin irritation time is shorter than when washing with normal tap water.
This result suggests that washing the face with Pellergino or other carbonated water would be effective. You might think it's impractical, but it's an interesting idea. Spray mineral water on your face before applying eye cream and moisturizer. Moisturizing products and eye creams will help prevent water from evaporating ‒ retaining water, turning the surface of the skin into a reservoir, thereby pulling water into the skin.
This is especially good in dry environments such as in winter, air-conditioned rooms or in airplanes. Mineral water is obtained from mineral water sources. It does not contain chemicals such as Chlorine ‒ which is often added to the tap water we still use to keep the water free of algae and other microorganisms. The ingredients of mineral water vary depending on the source of the water. Vichy's contains sulfur, while La Roche-Posay's contains selenium which is effective in treating eczema. Both selenium and sulfur have anti-inflammatory effects.
- Treatment of dark spots
I really like prescription medications that lighten dark spots, but here are a few suggestions if you want to try over-the-counter products.
- Moisturizing products
Apply moisturizer regularly: in the morning after washing your face, in the late afternoon or early evening, and finally before going to bed. With a very low O/D score, or a dry climate, a cream moisturizer is better than a lotion because your skin needs intense hydration. If you have an average O/D score of 17-26 or are in high humidity, use lotion. Avoid moisturizers with lots of fragrance and products that contain essential oils.
- Eye cream
You already have enough skin problems, so why not make life easier by skipping eye cream? Instead, you can apply your regular moisturizer around the eye area. If you really want to use an eye cream, choose one of the products below and apply it before your moisturizer.
The masks featured here all contain sulfur.
People with DSPW skin type should never peel their skin as it can make your skin more sensitive and damage the skin barrier. Instead, focus on moisturizing products.
4. BUY US PRODUCTS
Reading ingredients on product labels is important for DSPW skin types, as your skin can be irritated by too many types of ingredients.
- Sunscreen for your skin
You should use sunscreen. If you have dark spots, there are a few sunscreens that contain skin-lightening factors like Philosophy A Pigment of Your Imagination. If possible, look for sunscreen products that contain antioxidants.
5. TREATMENTS FOR YOUR SKIN
There is no cure for dry and sensitive skin. To solve these two problems, the best treatment is to use skin care products, change lifestyle and diet. However, there are therapies that can treat dark spots and there are also many options for treating wrinkles.
– Laser and light treatment
For Caucasian DSPWs, there are several laser and light treatments that are used to remove dark spots (such as freckles). Lasers such as: Ruby laser, Alexandrite laser, or Nd:Yag emit specific light and only dark brown areas (black spots) absorb these light. The IPL emits different lights towards targets including dark spots and blood vessels in the skin.
When laser or light is directed at dark brown spots, these melanin pigments absorb the energy of the light and heat up to the point of bursting. The surrounding cells that do not contain melanin will not be affected. Black patients cannot use this technique because the normal skin cells around the cells to be killed also contain high amounts of melanin, so it can be affected.
- Peeling off skin
Dark skin DSPW can be used with mild peels to improve dark spots. Those containing glycolic acid and lactic acid (collectively AHAs) are best for this skin type, as they increase the skin's ability to hold water and have a peeling effect. What's more, these peels improve fine lines and wrinkles. You can get a peel at a salon or spa, but if you're doing it in a dermatologist's office, they may be able to do it with a higher concentration of AHAs, resulting in better results.
– Skin tightening
There are many types of skin tightening treatments that help treat wrinkles. Those that use collagen or hyalorunic acid. These are ideal for DSPW and DSNW skin because collagen and hyalorunic acid are natural substances found in the skin, they give a natural feeling and immediate effect.
Skin cleansing - Skin care - Skin protection
In particular, skin care is the most process, should be coordinated according to the principle of layering, from liquid to dense and with a pH from low to high.
Step 1: Cleanse the skin
1. Remove makeup
Helps remove dirt, excess oil, sunscreen and makeup.
+ The two most popular forms today are makeup remover oil and Micellar Water makeup remover.
If you have sensitive, acne-prone skin: avoid using those containing alcohol, fragrance, mineral oil to avoid skin irritation.
Dosage: 1 time per day in the evening.
+ To have a healthy skin, should choose a cleanser with a pH less than 1.
For acne skin: should look for products containing acne-fighting ingredients such as BHA (Salicylic Acid), AHA (Glycolic acid), Neem or Tea Tree...
+ For sensitive skin: should use cleaning products that contain less chemicals, less ingredients, do not contain irritating substances such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Alcohol, instead of mild ingredients that have a soothing effect. Soothing skin like Soy, Chamomile, Aloe Vera, Cucumber...
Dosage: 2 times a day, morning and evening
+ If the skin does not have too many problems, just need to physically exfoliate.
+ If the skin has many hidden acne, large pores or problems with sebum, you can consider using more chemical exfoliants. After applying AHA/BHA, wait at least 20 minutes for the skin to balance its pH, then use the next products.
+ Dosage: Physical exfoliation: 1-2 times/week. Chemical exfoliation: Once a day, or every other day, even 1-1 times a week is fine.
Step 2: Skin Care
1. Skin Balancer (Toner/ Skin Balancer)
+ As a bridge between cleansing and skin care, helping to balance the pH of the skin after washing the face.
+ Toner contains alcohol to help clean the skin more deeply
+ Alcohol-free or low-alcohol toners contain skin-restoring ingredients, reducing redness and replenishing moisture to the skin's surface immediately after cleansing.
Dosage: Twice a day, right after washing face.
2. Mask (Mask)
+ Wash-off mask (applied mask): after 10-15 minutes, you wash it off with water.
Sheet mask (sheet mask): apply for 15-20 minutes. After removing the mask, gently pat the essence to absorb into the skin and then continue with the next steps of care without washing it off.
+ Lotion mask is also a sheet mask but softer and simpler.
Dosage: 2-3 times/week. Can be used every day as a lotion mask.
3. Essence (Essence/ Serum/ Ampoule)
+ You can use many types of serum on top of each other according to the rule of liquid first, then thick, between each type should be 3-7 minutes apart for nutrients to penetrate into the skin.
+ If there are too many serums, you should divide them evenly into the days of the week, or 1 type in the morning, 1 in the evening, too much overlap is easy to make the skin superfluous and cause more acne.
Dosage: 1-2 times a day
4. Water supply (Emulsion/ Lotion/ Gel)
+ Any skin type needs to be hydrated with Emulsion / Liquid Lotion or clear gel products.
+ If you already have a lotion mask or sheet mask, you don't need this step anymore.
Dosage: 1-2 times a day
5. Moisturizer (Cream/ Oil/ Moisturizer)
+ Moisturizing cream or oil will form a protective film that helps all previous skincare steps to be locked under the skin and not evaporate from the skin, while keeping the skin soft.
+ Should consider between Oil (vegetable oils such as jojoba, grape seed oil, rosehip oil ...) and Cream (cream). You can use both, or just use one if you feel your skin is already moist enough.
Dosage: Twice a day, morning and evening.
6. Special treatment (Treatment)
+ If there are acne or bruises, you can use 1 more intensive product to dot on those defects.
Common topical products to treat acne are Tretinoin, Benzoyl Peroxide, Sulfur, Azelaic Acid and topical antibiotics. It is recommended to use them after fully moisturizing.
Dosage: 1-2 times per day.
Step 3: Protect Skin
+ It is a step that only needs to be done during the day to prevent any harmful effects from the sun and the outside environment.
+ Dosage: per day, can be applied once or 1-2 times depending on the intensity of your sun exposure.
C – Timelines for Effective Skin Care
+ 1 minute is the maximum time to save detergents on the skin
+ 2 minutes is the time the water takes to effectively wash away the cleaning products on the skin.
+ 3 minutes is the interval between skin care steps
+ 5 minutes is the total time to use cleansing oil to clean and completely dissolve makeup, dirt and sebum (3 minutes massage, 1 minute emulsify with water and 1 minute wash with water)
+ 10-15 minutes is the time to apply the mask each time and is also the time it takes for the sunscreen to penetrate and promote its protective and aesthetic effect.
+ 20 minutes is the time the skin needs to balance itself pH. Pay attention to this milestone when combining products with pH requirements such as vitamin C, Retinoids or AHA/BHA.
+ 28-42 days is the life cycle of the healthy cell layer on the skin, and the regeneration cycle of the skin (Cell Turnover).
+ 42-56 days (equivalent to 6-8 weeks) is the life cycle of an inflammatory acne.
+ 90 days (approximately 3 Turnovers) is the time it takes for a skincare product/ routine to work so you can feel it clearly.
After the above article, what do you think? You have really understood your skin type right yet?
From theory to practice
Although Baumann's skin classification system is somewhat more specific and accurate in assessing skin, we should understand that this is only a systematic method from the perspective of four factors. factor, not a specific solution, is if your skin belongs to any group, you need to take care of your skin.
There are two issues to keep in mind:
• The skin on your face can have different characteristics, it is normal for the cheeks to be dry and the forehead to be oily. If the difference is small, that's okay, but if it's too big, maybe you should treat each skin area as different skin types and treat them separately.
Suppose in the above case, you can consider your cheek skin as DRNW and forehead skin as OSNT and then follow the corresponding regimen for example. The specific skin care is also reasonable to explain the spot treatment method, for example, if your skin has acne, where is it considered a special skin, only apply acne cream there. Just don't apply the whole face.
• Distinguishing skin type and skin condition: One of the dangerous mistakes of skin classification is the confusion between skin type and skin condition. Each person's skin type is fixed, but the skin condition is constantly changing depending on the environment and care.
For example, people with oily skin will have large pores and active sebum, this is a genetic factor, normal skincare will not be changed. However, in the dry winter, the person's skin becomes more balanced, even showing signs of dryness. In this case, the skin type is still fixed with the element of oily skin (Oily) but the weather fluctuations have caused the moisture on the skin's surface to change. The purpose of skincare is to overcome the disadvantages of the skin type through balancing the state of the skin. This means that even if you know your skin is oily, when the surface of your skin is dry, you need to change the appropriate moisturizing measure to bring the skin state back to balance.
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